Product development
Oct/Nov 2022
Product Development:
Female Turnout Pants for Structural Firefighting
- Human-centered design approach
- Advanced production techniques
- Pattern modification
- Ergonomic observation
- Fitting
Female adequate Personal Protective Clothing (PPC) 
for Structural Firefighters
“How could PPE be better adapted, thus safer and 
more performance enabling 
for female firefighters?”
The intent of this project is to analyze and define shortcomings in Personal Protective Clothing (PPC) for female users in structural firefighting. While complex to prove, it has been assessed that ill-fitted equipment causes female firefighters to be more at risk of injuries and subject to a higher intensity physical exertion than their male counterparts. Throughout this research project, I aim to identify the main issues, and design a piece of protective clothing tailored to the users specific needs. This should result in enhanced protection, alongside increased comfort and efficiency on the job. 

The objective is to improve the safety, comfort, and mobility of female firefighters by designing a PPE specifically designed for their needs.
Project Brief
Problem definition:
While the NFPA 1751 guidelines state that all PPE manufacturers should offer a female fit for Turnout coats and pants, the specific requirements to this close are quite blurry, only reducing male measurements to a smaller measurement bracket. The reason behind this could be the absence of anthropometric data specific to female firefighters. The current women’s fit offered by manufacturers are based on an average female body, not the average build of a female firefighter. This results in inaccurate fit despite manufacturers efforts to make more adequate protective gear. In addition, female fit were developed as a variant, or by-product, of the original male firefighter turnout gear, meaning the garment construction, or placement of key features such as pockets, has not been questioned and rethought, to answer a female physiology and ergonomics. Lastly, such female fits are not always made available to female firefighters, for lack of budget, time, or simply a too small number of female members. It is important to note that when available to them, many female firefighters still choose a male turn ensemble, or at least male trousers, over the fit designed for them. Taking into account the major anthropometric differences between male and female firefighters, and the critical character of PPC against the dangers such users are exposed to, this choice demonstrates a clear lack of adequacy of the available gear on the market.
User-base and market
Users are structural female firefighters in BC, Canada. Tasks needing to be completed include:
- fire interventions,
- car extractions,
- confined space rescue,
- emergency medical assistance,
- forcible entry.
This leads to the need for a wide range of movements including driving, running, operating hoses or heavy machinery, kneeling, crawling, climbing, stepping over/ under unstable objects or debris, lifting, and overhead arm movements.
There are only a reduced number of PPE manufacturers, established for the quality of their products. Construction and manufacturing knowledge from established PPE brands such as InnoTex, or Starfield Lion will be invaluable for the progress of this project.
Design Requirements
All turnout coats and pants are composed of three protective layers:
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Outer shell: protective barrier against flame, abrasion & tears.
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Moisture barrier: thin inner layer preventing chemicals, water & blood borne pathogens from entering the garment & facilitating moisture regulation away from the body.
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Thermal liner: constituting the main protection against heat.​
These core components and materials cannot be altered. In addition, any design iteration must take into account all the components of a full PPE set: Protective hood, helmet, SCBA Mask and pack, gloves, boots, and harness. Utmost attention must be put into interface areas such as cuffs, and neck. Due to the dangerous character of this profession, all PPC needs to comply with previously cited regulations, and be tested repeatedly. As mentioned previously, it cannot sway away from the current aesthetics of firefighting PPC.
Meredith McQuerry & Cassandra Kwan - NFPA webinar on female PPC shortcomings
Luckily, a few people have identified this issue, including Dr. Meredith McQuerry (Florida State University) and Dr. Cassandra Kwon (North Carolina State University), currently gathering female firefighters’ anthropometric data, via 3D scanners, in order to fill in the lack of information regarding female users. Once aware of characteristics of the bodies female PPC needs to be designed for, there will be a huge opportunity to design a turnout ensemble that, while similar to the man’s uniform, will fit users properly and be designed for their specific protective and mobility needs.
Thanks to their ongoing study : surveys, focus groups, manufacturers interviews, and 3D scanning of female firefighters; McQuerry and Kwon, identified that the strongest turnout gear dissatisfactions and difficulties originated from the turnout pants, most specifically the crotch area.
Ergonomic considerations
In addition to the female form often being forgotten when it comes to the design of firefighting personal protective equipment, there is no database corresponding to a female firefighter body type. Due to the high physical intensity of the profession, a typical female firefighter's body shape will be different to an average North American female body. However, no information has even been gathered on the ergonomic data of female firefighters, both in Structural and Wildland firefighting. As a result, PPE manufacturers intending to design female protective apparel are working in the dark, on a measurement chart that is inadequate and probably quite dated.
Observations & human-centered approach
Observation and testing of "retired" turnout pants
I was lucky enough to have access to a retired turnout ensemble, handed down to the school by a male firefighter. I took a good look at the construction and tried them on. These trousers are VERY big for me (a mens fit, size 36). However, from testimonies I have seen in my research, it sadly is plausible that women have to work, or at least train in such oversized gear. Hand me downs are very common, and due to the high cost of turnout gear, firefighters often have to make do with what is available.
I proceeded to take the positions a firefighter is required to take while on the job: squatting, crouching, kneeling, climbing, stepping over debris or obstacles. This allowed me to experience the restraint to my range of movements, and the extra effort that was caused by the bulk fabric and the oversized fit. This is of course without all the extra weight and volume of a full PPE equipment, and in the comfort of school.
Straight pants prototyping
I made a prototype using a straight pant block, in order to test the same movements. The fabric was a thick, coated, woven with no stretch. I used chalk in order to mark all the folding areas. The pants were clearly lacking some ease, but I was still able to mark most drag lines caused by the same body positions I took with the turnout pants. On these particular pants, I noticed:
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olds, or "whiskers" in the front of the pubic bone, indicating too much fabric in the front rise;
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a lot of folds at the front hip to upper thigh junction, mostly on the side of the lower hips;
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fabric bulking heavily behind the knees, despite a straight leg.
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my centre front pined fly popping opened when bending forward and crouching / crawling (the pants are tight, but regardless, it made it very clear that I need to account for the waist expending when bending substantially forwards.
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the back of the pants gapping at my lower back, again when bending forwards. This is a potential hazard that needs to be addressed. NFPA 1971 specifies for 2" overlap with the Turnout Coat, when bending forwards, arms up and knees bent. This implies for the coat to have a long tail, and I believe a successful design would protect efficiently and comply with specifications with any chosen firefighting turnout coat.
Pattern Modification
After this fitting, I set out to fit the crotch for more ease, and to modify the tilt of the pelvis, in order to get rid of the whiskers, and lengthen the back rise and the coverage in the lower back while crouching or bending forward. However, I realized the crotch paneling was not the most urgent, and that I should focus on a more ergonomic design around the pelvis, hip bones, and full hips.
Third party Fitting
Measurement taking (Nov 19)
We met with our fit models. This will set foundations for the next 6 months of work for all the DETA students, as we progress with our capstone projects. As a result we had to start a good data base of our fit models' mensurations. In order to set the tone for a great collaboration, I believe it was also extremely important to have a lovely interaction with these two students. They will accompany us through our design and production process, and have some very valuable insight, from their own fashion design studies and passion.
I worked with two of my classmates. We took all the traditional body measurements we may need. We then all in turn discussed and took notes of all the specific measurements we may need in regards to our design intent and the functions our piece of apparel will need to complete. How the body fits in and interact with these functions is critical, and having a body providing hard data is very valuable for our pattern iterations to go forward. In my case,
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I made sure to take the natural waist circumference, the circumference at the hip bone level, and at the full hips level.
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In order to measure the pelvis tilt of my model, I measured the distance from her waist line to where her pants would naturally sit in the centre front, and in the centre back. This will allow me to balance the belt shapes, and the crotch / rise appropriately.
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I also measured the leg circumference at thigh, knee, calf and ankle while straight, as well as the extension of the knee circumference when bending the leg fully.
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Finally, still in a crouching position, I measured the natural waist circumference, the circumference at hip bone level, and the full hips. (This resulted in a measurement taken "diagonally", towards the floor).
I believe this collaboration will be extremely helpful for my product development!​
Unsuitable prototype pants
Unfortunately for me, the prototype pants I had been working on were too small for the fit model. This was not such an issue because they only constituted a basic block to work from. I believe I still gathered some useful information by manipulating them and exploring a range of movements myself.
New prototype block
This mishap actually led to a strike of luck, since the fit models told me they had been working on a pant pattern themselves. This block has been downloaded of the WGSN website, is the correct size for my fit model, and is a wider, more relevant leg width for my project. I have the digital file and will try to modify the pattern via Illustrator, and then test it, either on V-stitcher, or on pattern small scale mockups.
I will primarily focus on :
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adjusting the pelvis tilt and the belt angle
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building a more dynamic leg shape, bent at the hip joint and leg.
Project Schedule & outcomes 

Primary and secondary research will carry on until the end of November. Collection of user feedback will continue via the help of BCPFFA women's Committee, FSWBC, and local fire halls, who have offered to help support this project. Relevant anthropometric data will be collected locally or through previously run research, for full design accuracy. In addition, used turnout gear will be analyzed for wear patterns. Lastly, fabric and material sourcing will be initiated, hopefully with the help of General Recycled, developer of an innovative Aramid recycling process, allowing for enhanced protection.
